Tailor&#39;s tape-measure.



PATENTED 00T. 2,9; 1907;

B. RIGCIARDI. TAILoR's TAPE MBA SURE.

APPLIOATIN FILED MAR. 6. 1906.

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BARTOLOMEO RIGCIARDI,

OF NEW YORK, N. Y.

TAILORS TAPE-MEASURE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented Oct. 29, 1907'.

Application led March 6. l906 Serial No. 304,579.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that l, BARTOLOMEO RiccL-inm, a subject ol the King ol'Italy, residing at New York, in the county ol New York and State ot NewYork, havf'e invented certain new and uselul Improvements in TailorsTape-Measures, oti which the following is a specilication.

This invention relates to the art o'l tailoring and particularly to atape measure Ol that type which is used by tailors and dressmakers lorlaying out the designs of the various garments, either upon paper orcloth, as a pattern from which to afterwards cut the different pieces toform the garment, or directly upon the cloth out ol which the garmentitseh` is to be cut.

lt has long been recognized in the art of tailoring that the variousmeaurements of a body are under most conditions proportional to thechest measurement of the person. Accordingly the measurement oi apersons chest hasbeen taken as the standard measurement to which alltheI other measurements relate proportionately. For instance, inmeasuring a person for a suit, certain major measurements are taken,such as amplitude oi chest, amplitude ol back, length oi arm from thearm pit to the Wrist, length ol leg from the crotch to the toot. Inaddition to these measurements which are called major measurements l'orthe purpose ol distinction, there are certain minor measurements, whichare, however, most important in securing a proper lit, but which are notdetermined by actual measurements-of a persons body. These minormeasurements, such as the peak ot` a shoulder or the yoke oi a coat, orthe cuirass ot' a pair ol' trousers, or the like, are recognized to beara definite proportion to the major measurements, and accordingly themajor measurements alone are taken by actual measurements, and theothers obtained by geometrical designs. These accordingly consist of aseries ol' horizontal and perpendicular lines and are projected lrom themajor measurements when the design is laid out. ln laying out thesedesigns, the amplitude oi the chest or chest measurement is customarilytaken as the standard, and accordingly, a certain line is spoken ol indesigning a garment, as the projection above the actual measurement olthe twell'th part ol the amplitude ol' the chest, or the litth part oithe amplitude ot' the chest, and so on.

My present invention has lor its primary object a tape measure which isdesigned to expedite the work oi a designer or cutter and assist him tothe maximum degree in rapidly determining the proper minor measurementsin projecting his lines.

To this end, my invention consists in an improved tape measure whichdisplays in addition to a lineal' scale, certain other notations thatindicate the various measurements or sizes ol patterns to which agarment is to be cut by the tailor, ranging l'rom the smallest to thelargest sizes that are yrecognized as having become standardized in thetrade, and the invention further consists in a tape measure Ot. thischaracter which may also be used by the tailor for taking themeasurements ol a person for his suit and can then be used by the tailorin properly laying out the pattern or otherwise projecting hisgeometrical figures for the proper cutting ofthe so called minor parts.

For a full understanding of the invention, reference is to be had to theaccompanying drawing, in which:

Figure l is a face wiew of one 'side O my improved tailors tape measure;and, Fig. 2 is a view of the other side thereof, upon an enlarged scale,it being understood that in the complete article the various sectionsportrayed in the drawingare all connected as one integral strip.

Corresponding and like parts are referred to in the followingdescription and indicated in all the views of the drawings by the samerelerence characters.

In producing my improved tape measure, I take a strip of somenon-stretchable fabric or material oi a sut'- ticient length to containthe various scales and notations hereinalter described. In the presentinstance, thestrip is two yards long. On one ace the strip displays alinear scale of seventy-two inches with iractions thereof, and along oneside of this linear scale is a two inch scale all as best shown in Figil of the drawing. The opposite iace oi the measure is divided byparallel lines into seven columns which extend throughout its lengthand'at each end it is reinl'orced by clips, preferably of metal, andwhich are numbered one to seven to correspond to the different columns.

Displayed within the respective columns are a series of notations whichare designated', to distinguish one from the other, by suitable indicia,tlie different letters ot' the alphabet being used in the presentinstance as the most convenient means and as not liable to becomeconfused with the numerical notations of the different series. ln thepresent instance also, the number of these series of notations orscales, is such as to run from A to V.

lt is to be particularly noted that practically all of these scalescontain numerals lti 18, 2O 22 24, 2li, 4and so on, up to 5st, thesenumerals being the standardized size et' suits, the standard being takenfrom the chest measurement, as it is well known that the chestmeasurement is taken as the primary measurement and that suits aredesignated as 1G size, or 34 size, or 54 size according to the chestmeasurement, the other` measurements being derived from this mainmeasurement and it is with this in view that my improved tape measurehas been invented. h

Each one of the scales A to V is a proportional scale in that itsnotations 1G to 54 designate respectively the deiinite proportions ol' achest measurement from 16 to 54 niches. Take, lor instance,

scales A and M. The scale A contains divisions oi the l portional scalesfrom A to V, so that in speaking of protwelfth part and the scale M ofthe one-halt' part. From this it is to be understood that as thenotations of the scale A, running from 16 to 54. represent divisions ofthe twelfth part, that for a chest measurement oi 48, the scale A willmeasure from 48 out to the end of the measure, exactly four inches, orone-twelfth part of 4S, ln similar manner, it is to be understood thatthe scale M contains divisions of the one-half part. Accordingly, thc-n,the notation 16 on the scale M indicates that from said notation out tothe adjacent end of the measure is eight inches or, again, the notationson the scale A being divisions of the twelfth part of the amplitude ofthe chest, the division 24 will manifestly be two inches from the end ofthe measure and the notation 36 three inches from the end of themeasure. Or, in other words, my improved tailors7 tape measure may bebriefly described as follows: lt contains on one iace an inch scale, andon the other face a plurality of scales that l have termed proportionalscales and each of which contains a series of notations from 16 to 541,indicating the various recognized sizes oi chest measurements known inthe tailoring` art. Each one of these scales is a proportional ordivisional scale in that each of its notations or numerals from 16 to 54is located in registry with the numeral of the inch scale which is aquotient of the number on the proportional scale as a dividend and thearbitrarily selected proportional as divisor, such as one-twelfth oronetwenty-ourth that is selected ior the particular proportional scale.Take, for example, again scale A, which contains divisions of thetwelfth part. From this, it will be seen that as the numerals of thescale A running from 16 to 54 represent divisions of the' twelfth partthat for the chest measurement of 4S, for example, the numeral 48 on thescale A will register with the numeral on the inch scale or oneftwelfthof forty-eight. It is the same way with all of the other scales. For

example, on that scale (ill) which is a proportionalv scale towards themiddle, and the different numerals 16 to 5ft i on the respective scalesare placed where they will be that number of inches from the end of thescale which is represented by a quotient of which such number of theproportional scale is the dividend, and the arbitrarily selectednumeral, such as twelve, or one-twelfth, or, two, or one-half, as thedivisor. By this, I mean to say that my invention is not necessarilylimited to the showing displaying an inch or linear scale upon the tape,because even without this, those versed in the use oi my improved tapemeasure will understand that the numerals 16 to 54; of the differentproportional scales are so many inches from the end of the scale as isrepresented by the quotient above mentioned.

ln using my improved tape measure. it is to be observed that l proposeto use it in connection with an improved system of designing garments,the said system including a treatise on the art of designing. and animproved set square. which latter is the subject mattei' anotherapplication for patent and which l. therefore, deem it unnecessary todescribe here. But, in using the system, I refer in the treatise to thedifferent projecting a certain distance to the right or left or up anddown rom a given point or extremity. .l refer lo the tw elfi h part ofthe chest measurement. or to the twentyfourth part of the chestamplitude, or to the fourth part, and so on, and refer to the particularcolumn and under what designating character or letter of the alphabetsuch proportional scale may be found. 'lo illustrate the exact divisionsor proportional parts of the chest measurement that l havearbitrarily-selected for the different proportional scales. l merelystate that scale A divides the various sized chest measurement intotwelfth parts; l5 displays di ions of the twenty-fourth part; C of thefourth part; D of the onehalf part; E of the one-third part; i" of thetwelfth part; G of the fifth part; li of the third part, i of thetwelfth part; .l of the thirty-secoml part; l of the 8th part; L of thethirty-second part; )i of the one-half part: A' of the one-half plusone-eighth part O of the third part; l) of the two-thirds part; Q of thethird part; t of the thirty-second part; S of the one-half; T of theforty-eighth; U of the sixteenth and V of the fifth.

ln the above description, it will be noted that some i of theproportional scales appear' to be duplicated, but this is not the case.lt is, of course, necessary to have in some instances different minormeasurements or certain proportional scales for women and others formen. and these notations are accordingly contrasted in color, todistinguish them. As an example, it is to be understood that the l scalewhich divides the various chest measurements into twelve parts is forone sex, while the scale A which also divides the chest measurements.into twelve parts is for the opposite sex. ln the preferred arrangementof contrasting colors, I use one color for those proportional scaleswhich apply to men only, another contrasting color for `those whichapply to women only and still another contrasting color which applies toboth sexes equally.

.l believe that the foregoing description in connection with theaccompanying drawing is sufiicient for those who are skilled in the artto which this invention ap pertains, to construct a tape measureembodying the features of my invention and l do not deem it necessary tofurther describe the operation of the measure, which 1 believe will beclear from the foregoing. 1t might be well to add, however, that eachone ofitbese proportional scales divides a chest measurement intocertain 'I proportionate parts, such as one-fourth or one-twelfth, andthat the notations of the respective scales refer to the recognizedsizes of chest measurements for suits that are now known in the trade.Suppose, for instance, that the tailor desires to cut a coat, size 3(3.By looking at all the numbers 36 in the measure, the tailor at oncehasvthe cut for one st vle or habit, and without the necessity ofcomputing for all the divisions or proportions of the parts that areneedful for cutting the minor features of the garment, particularly whenreferring to my improved treatise which refers back` in its descriptionto the different scales.

The reinforcing ends or clips assist in finding the proportional scales,as the number on said clips refer to the different columns, and hencewhen in my treatise, l speak of scale A, column l, this scale may atonce be found without the necessity of searching all over the face ofthe tape measure.

ln addition to assisting the tailor in designing` patterns for differentgarments for what is known as readymade costumesy it is obvious that myimproved measure may be equally used with made-to-order garments, as theperson may be measured with that face of the measure which contains thelinear scale and the measure then be used as above described indesigning the different parts ol the garment according to theproportional scales that refer to different proportions of the chestmeasurement.

Having thus described the invention7 what is claimed, as neuT is:

l. 'lhe herein-described tallorsr tape measure, provided with an inchscale and also provided with a series of proportional scales, thedivisions of which have numerals designatingl the standard chestmeasurements recognized in the tailoring' art, the said divisions beingso arranged that the saidnuinerals ei each proportional scale arearranged respectively in registry with numerals of the inch scale thatare the quotients resultinl from the divisions of the numbers of thatscale by the common divisor for that scale.

2. The herein-described tailors tape measure, provided with au inchscale and also provided with a series of proportional scales, thedivisions ofV which have numerals designating the standard chestmeasurements recognized in the tailoring art, "che said divisions beingso arranged that the said numerals oi each proportional scale arearranged respectively in registry with numerals of the inch scale thatare quotients resultinfrom the divisions of the numbers of that scale bythe common divisor for that scale, the said proportional scales beingparallel, and a series of parallel lines separating the same, and thetape being designate the different columns.

The herein-described tailors' tape measure provided on one face with aseries of scales, the divisions of which have numerals designating thestandard chest measurements recognized in the tailoring art, the saiddivisions being; so arranged that the said numerals of each scale arelocated respectively distances from the end of the tape equal in inchesto the number of inches obtained by dividing the said numerals on thatscale by a common divisor for such scale.

In testimony two witnesses.

whereof I alx my signature in presence of ANGnLonAmA LALLI.

provided with end pieces numbered transversely to l

